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Re: From Basics to advanced

PostPosted: Wed Aug 27, 2008 11:54 am
by Daniel1
OK so I will order my new bulb today and some Seachem Iron and Seachem Trace.

I had almost forgotten and I should have thought about it is a proper way of diffusing CO2 into the tank?
I have read that the best three methods are:

1. Connect the tubing to an internal filter, in my case my Xp1. I'm a little confused on the how.

2. Diffuse C02 through a powerhead, I have a small powerhead

3. Buy a glass diffuser

What do you think is more convenient?

Re: From Basics to advanced

PostPosted: Wed Aug 27, 2008 9:58 pm
by Crazygar
1. Connect the tubing to an internal filter, in my case my Xp1. I'm a little confused on the how.

2. Diffuse C02 through a powerhead, I have a small powerhead

3. Buy a glass diffuser

All depends Daniel, but I'll list the options;

(1) Connecting the tubing to an Internal Filter (or External) is totally unwise. The Co2 bubbles would create capivation and might damage your impeller and motor on your Filtration unit. Now, if you were to put this on the "outtake" (going back into the tank) you might be ok. Though this is not an efficient way. Most of us have built our own "Reactors" which chop up the CO2 further into a fine mist for better delivery back into the tank. A good DIY Reactor (similiar to the one I have) is found here on this website.

(2) Similiar to a reactor but this actually consumes energy and in my opinion noisy and not very efficient. Try and avoid this option. I know you have a Powerhead, but consider what you have to do to make it all work.

(3) The Glass Diffusers are nice but but can get clogged. Low efficiency. You can make it work better by placing it as deep into your tank as possible and close to the "outtake" of your filtration unit to help spread the Co2. Needs regular maintenance for 100% working order.

Check out this site; http://www.aquatic-eden.com/2006/10/methods-of-diffusing-co2-in-aquarium.html. This is a great article. You see that Option 1 (create your own Reactor) is the best way to go.

Gary

Re: From Basics to advanced

PostPosted: Wed Aug 27, 2008 10:55 pm
by Daniel1
Ok so I'm going to attempt to build the DIY reactor but just in case I run into trouble, is this another option:

http://www.aquacave.com/co2-reactor-500 ... dic-9.html

Edit: ok So I have been reading a lot about DIY Reactors and I find myself a little bit confused on how to build it...

Re: From Basics to advanced

PostPosted: Thu Aug 28, 2008 8:47 am
by Crazygar
Start with that link I provided for you in my other response. My instructions would most likely be the same as that! Always do a "wet" test before setting anything up and have extra hosing around just in case it does not work.

Gary

Re: From Basics to advanced

PostPosted: Fri Aug 29, 2008 12:34 am
by Daniel1
OK so I already started on the reactor and it seems fairly easy to do. I had to stop because I moved the fish from the 29 to the 10 gal tank and I took apart the 29 gal tank.
I don't know if anything could have gone worse. Broken stand, 2 aquariums cracked, flooded living room, stressed fish, injured catfish ..Horrible!!.
I took apart the 29 gal tank and I never thought it would be so hard to net out my fish, It took me about 40 mins to try to net out 4 apistos, 2 black neons, 1 otto, 1 cory, 1 amano shrimp. Then, I rinsed the tank, rubbed it , filled it with hot water, rinsed it again and let the sun do its trick. I set up the 10 gal tank and that's when my problems started. 2 hours after everything was set and I was almost ready to go buy the paint for the background , I noticed this big crack on the 10 gals tank. I ran to my basement and grabbed an extra 10 gals tank that was ridiculously dirty and had not been used in decades.
I gave it a good rubbing, cleaned it really nice and moved the fish again, which by this time were really stressed. I placed the tank in its stand and then I go check and the stand is broken and the tank is leaking!!!
So I run to the nearest petshop and grabbed a 10 gals tank and moved the fish again. I really hope I will never do this again. It took me the entire day and there are a lot of things that I was supposed to do that I didn't finish.
Tomorrow the co2 regulator and the plants are supposed to arrive. I have to paint the background, set up the substrate and the hardscape and then plant the plants.

I was thinking on buy water based latex paint for the background and for color I was thinking maybe black or dark blue.
Hopefully tomorrow everything goes smooth,
I'll keep you posted

Thanks a lot

Re: From Basics to advanced

PostPosted: Fri Aug 29, 2008 8:34 am
by Crazygar
Daniel, nothing usually goes to the plan. Always keep a 100% working tank available for a backup. Once you are done, discard both 10GAL tanks that are broken and the stand. You'll just run into this situation again.

Keep us posted bud.

Gary

Re: From Basics to advanced

PostPosted: Sat Aug 30, 2008 12:59 am
by freshfish
Ugh, what an experience!

Sounds like the broken stand was the cause of the cracks in both tanks. Definitely time to get a new stand... :(

Re: From Basics to advanced

PostPosted: Sat Aug 30, 2008 10:35 am
by J.B.
Sounds like Murphey got the best of ya. I can imagine the stress YOU were probably under as well as the fish. One thing you can do Daniel, is buy yourself one of the large plastic totes (usually around 14gals) to utilize during times like this. They are cheaper than a 10g tank, it will not crack, holds more water and can be used to store other fishy related equip. when not being used. :twocents:

Can't wait to see the tank when you're done.

Re: From Basics to advanced

PostPosted: Mon Sep 01, 2008 9:23 am
by Daniel1
wohoo finally I have time to post a little bit, after the stressed fish and the whole stand and tank problem I have made some improvement.

Co2 reactor is ready and connected to the intake of the xp1 as suggested in the website in order to maintain good flow. I has been tested and I wanted to take pictures of everything to document everything but the camera ran out of batteries and I couldn't wait for it to be charged.

Plants are located as previously planned except by the lobelia cardinalis that was placed on the left background meanwhile I decide what to do with it.

Blyxa Japonica arrived in great condition, the ludwigia repens is reallyy small so I'm hoping for some growth. Ludwigia cuba came with excellent rooting but some leaves were damaged due to shipping.

E. Acicularis is really my favorite. It was really hard to plant however, I planted bunches of about 10 stems a few inches apart from each other. Hoping that it becomes a carpet and covers the foreground.

Lobelia Cardinalis came in really good shape and it was probably bigger than the ludwigia repens.

Tank is 3/4 full and today I will assemble the xp1 with the co2 system.

Here is what I have for the Co2 system:

DIY reactor inline with the xp1 intake
Milwaukee Ma957 regulator with bubble counter, solenoid, needle valve.
Co2 proof tubing
Brass check valve
5 lbs Cylinder Tank

I got some questions about starting things off:

When should I start with the dry ferts?, when water clears out?..
I should set the co2 in a timer , right?
I'm going to start with a photoperiod of 6 hours and then move on.
Today I want to perform a small water change to clean some of the dead leaves, is that ok?

Thanks a lot, pictures coming tonight

Re: From Basics to advanced

PostPosted: Mon Sep 01, 2008 11:16 pm
by Daniel1
ok So I have started the co2 just now, but I really don't know how many bubbles I should be having?, I am a little bit confused.
If anyone has a Milwaukee ma957, how should it be adjusted?.

I have the low pressure gauge to 10 psi ( the smaller numbers)

How many bubbles per minute should I have, I am confused.

Solenoid is working properly, reactor seems just fine, we'll see tomorrow

Thanks

Re: From Basics to advanced

PostPosted: Tue Sep 02, 2008 12:43 pm
by freshfish
You may want to get a drop checker with a 4dkh solution; that's actually a better measure of CO2 levels than a bubble counter.

The CO2 should only run when your lights are on. In the absence of light, plants actually do the reverse; they absorb O2 and release CO2- so the livestock could OD on CO2 and run out of O2 if you run the CO2 when the lights aren't on.

I'd say a water change is fine now.

What fert regime are u using now?

Re: From Basics to advanced

PostPosted: Wed Sep 03, 2008 1:55 am
by William
Daniel,

What a long strange trip it has been for you my friend... Sorry I missed the start of this thread. I do think I could have added some tidbits to help you along in your journey. Be that as it may, let's move on.

The brass thumb-knob to the the lower right of the bubble counter adjusts the CO2 output from the can/into the tank.

Let's start things out slow and go for a bubble every 2 seconds - this is very conservative and unless you have no buffer in the water completely safe.

Hold off on ferting the tank for a few days. Lets see how the plants react to your baseline water, CO2 injection, the flourite substrate, and your timed lighting schedule.

When you get a chance please post pH, KH and GH levels of your supply water and tank water.

Best regards,

William

Daniel1 wrote:ok So I have started the co2 just now, but I really don't know how many bubbles I should be having?, I am a little bit confused.
If anyone has a Milwaukee ma957, how should it be adjusted?.

I have the low pressure gauge to 10 psi ( the smaller numbers)

How many bubbles per minute should I have, I am confused.

Solenoid is working properly, reactor seems just fine, we'll see tomorrow

Thanks

Re: From Basics to advanced

PostPosted: Thu Sep 04, 2008 10:26 pm
by Daniel1
Hi William, thanks for your reply,

I have adjusted the needle valve to two bubbles per second.
I was going to post the parameters you asked for but then I noticed that the test kit is too old so I'm ordering them with the check drop, the new lights and a brass check valve that I couldn't find in home depot.

There has been a relatively big amount of growth specially on the ludwigia cuba, it's definitely my favorite plant and some on the hairgrass. All the plants have grown a bit except for the ludwigia repens that's still getting used to the tank.

I am also ordering 20 malaysian trumpet snails . they are 20 for two bucks.

I started school so I haven't had time to post pictures but they will deff. be posted this weekend.

Thanks a lot

Re: From Basics to advanced

PostPosted: Thu Sep 04, 2008 11:48 pm
by William
Daniel1 wrote:Hi William, thanks for your reply,

I have adjusted the needle valve to two bubbles per second.


Daniel,

2 bubbles every second is bit much to start off with if you are new to canned CO2. Dial it back to a bubble every second or two... You can up the input after we get a handle on the ppm you are injecting in the tank. Forgot to mention get a phosphate test kit as well. I'll show you how to measure CO2 ppm the old school way but we need to know that the tank and supply water are free of phosphates.

Best regards,

William

Re: From Basics to advanced

PostPosted: Fri Sep 05, 2008 7:17 am
by Daniel1
I'm sorry I meant to say a bubble every two seconds, not two bubbles per second,

I actually have a phosphate kit that I recently ordered, I will post results today.